FAQ's

1. What materials are used?

Almost all of our molded products are food-grade Polyethylene. However, there are exceptions. Our Mirrors are mostly PETG while a few are Polycarbonate. All Mirror Covers are Polycarbonate. Some items have hardware of Stainless Steel or Zinc-plated Steel.

2. Within the molded product lines, what are the differences in all of these materials?

Polyethylene resin is commercially available in a very wide range of specifications. Our “house” Polyethylene resins are a medium density and a high-density.

Medium Density items are slightly softer. They are easier to penetrate but will be more flexible in colder conditions.

High Density resins are more brittle. They are harder to penetrate and are easier to crack in very cold conditions.

The PETG Mirrored material is a wonderful balance between the hardness of Acrylic and the strength of Polycarbonate.

3. Can I request a certain material be used?

Yes!

4. Can I request customization?

Yes! While it is very project specific, we will do whatever we can to create that special item for you.

5. Are custom colors available?

You bet! We currently have (33) in-house colors including the very popular Sandstone. We also have menus on many other colors that we have played with and can replicate. If none of these will work, we can order colorant for virtually any color.

6. Why doesn’t your web site recommend specific products for specific animals?

This is highly animal dependent, even among members of the same species. Only people in close contact with an individual animal would have enough information to make recommendations.

7. (In reference to the larger, more aggressive animals such as Big Cats, Polar Bears, Hippos, and Rhinos) Why does one product seem to have a reasonable life expectancy while a seemingly identical one doesn’t?

As you can guess, there are many reasons; some we have control over and some we do not.

Of the ones we control, resin density, physical size, and wall thickness are the major factors. Resin densities are discussed it Section #2 (above).

Physical size is usually obvious. If you have an aggressive chewer, get the largest item necessary so they cannot get a good grip on it. With Elephants who constantly break things, we have a class-leading 48” Ball in (4) wall thicknesses up to ¾” thick (we can mold even thicker if necessary!).

The realities of managing a professional animal facility can sometimes come into play also. Things get moved around. Something bought for a docile, older big cat (say a Heavy Duty 36” Ball in Medium Density resin) might last many months but, if moved to an average Polar Bear, might only last days (probably should have been an Extra Heavy Duty 48” Ball in High Density resin).

8. You have many different wall thicknesses. How do I know which one is best?

Budgets certainly come into play here but there are some general guidelines.

For the average very large animal, get the largest physical size and the thickest wall possible. This assumes you want them to play with it but not carry it around. If you do want them to carry it, back down on the size but stay with the Extra Heavy-Duty wall in High Density.

For docile or less-aggressive animals, don’t forget that we have a lot of items with very thin walls (referred to as Light Duty). Even our gigantic 48” Ball is available in a thin wall.

9. Several of the products have a welded plastic fitting with a threaded metal plug. Depending on the animal, I might prefer another option. What can you offer?

First, you must know that the molding process demands at least (1) ½” diameter hole be included in every part to serve as a vent for air exchange.

To address this hole, you have (3) Options. All at no extra charge.

• 1. The welded-in plastic fitting with the removable hex-head zinc-plated steel plug is the most popular. This is the standard option in most of our products unless requested otherwise. It allows interior access to insert ballast, add scented material, compensate for pressure or barometric changes, or create your own feeder. These welded fittings are always in white, no matter the part color.
• 2. You can also have us permanently weld a flat round piece of plastic (called a “patch”) over the vent hole. These welded fittings are always in white, no matter the part color.
• 3. Do nothing and leave the hole open.

10. In a marine environment, mirrors don’t seem to last as long as the rest of the toy. Why?

Like their glass cousins, Plastic Mirrors are all made using the same process of depositing a thin layer of metalized material onto the back side. Unfortunately, the state-of-the-art in mirror manufacturing means that the bond between the two dissimilar materials is fairly weak. Weak enough, in fact, to allow water over time to seep in between them and destroy the bond.

Whether you intend to use your item in water of not, you will be glad to hear that all Wildlife Toy Box Mirrors are sealed to reduce this effect. We do this to extend a mirror’s useful life because some facilities wash their toys with a hose.

Until we can find a suitable sealant (that works on plastic) to completely eliminate this issue at an affordable price point, we recommend for marine applications that you avoid total permanent immersion to increase mirror life. An alternative would be to stock several replacement mirrors in plastic or to order our Stainless Steel versions.

11. Freight is always an issue. What can I do to reduce our freight costs?

While freight is always going to be a factor in any item’s total cost, there are some general guidelines to help minimize it.

The single most effective way to reduce freight per item is to order as many items as you can. The freight on (10) individual items all bought separately is much greater than if you bought them all at the same time and put them in one box.

Our website asks our visitors who are considering ordering many items to let us provide a custom freight quote. It is usually cheaper!

Also, any shipment that needs a lift tailgate on the delivery vehicle or is shipped to a residential address will incur added charges.

12. Cutting Boards?

Yes! We have provided Food-grade Polyethylene stock-shaped (Rectangular, Circular, and Oval) as well as custom-shaped ones for years to the general marketplace but we have never specifically listed them on our WTB Website until recently.

They are available in several wall thicknesses and colors. They are even available with or without Finger Holes or Liquid Channels. We can even engrave in them. How about a green Cutting Board that is engraved “Vegetables Only” or a red one that says “Red Meat Only” or a blue one that says “Fish Only”?

As you know, Cutting Boards are much easier on knives so they don’t have to be sharpened or replaced as often. They also provide a convenient, portable, and clean surface when you are away from the normal processing areas.

Finally, don’t forget that adding one onto your order can easily be slipped into the box and may very well not raise your freight cost!

13. Food Court Items are now available, correct?

Similar situation to the Cutting Boards. We have made all kinds of Information Displays, Product Displays, and things like Sneeze Guards for years but we just didn’t include them into our WTB website. We are specialists in Acrylic and Polycarbonate fabrication.

14. While I’ve heard of a clear plastic called Acrylic, almost all of the Wildlife Toy Box Clear Feeders are made with Polycarbonate. What’s the difference between Acrylic and Polycarbonate?

Considering CLEAR PLASTICS? Here’s the real skinny on them; Pros & Cons!

ACRYLIC and POLYCARBONATE

• Common Brand Names
  Acrylic = Plexiglass
  Polycarbonate = Lexan
• Transparency: Acrylic has a slightly higher light transmission rating than polycarbonate, allowing more light to pass through. Acrylic is 92% transparent, while polycarbonate is 88%.
• Impact resistance:

  Polycarbonate is more impact resistant than acrylic, with 250 times the impact resistance of glass compared to Acrylic's 17 times.

  Polycarbonate offers much more resilience than acrylic, making it ideal for highly demanding applications like bullet-resistant windows. Acrylic has a high gloss finish and is more transparent, making it ideal for display cases. Acrylic is also easier to crack, while polycarbonate is easier to scratch.

• Scratch resistance: Acrylic is less likely to scratch than polycarbonate. However, polycarbonate is more likely to develop scratches that can't be buffed out.
• Yellowing: Acrylic doesn't yellow over time, while some types of polycarbonates can.
• Flammability: Acrylic burns slowly and is not recommended in areas where flames may be present, while polycarbonate has low flammability.
• Cost: Acrylic is generally less expensive than polycarbonate.
• Weight: Both weigh about the same (1.2 grams per cubic centimeter) making both heavier than water so both will not organically float.
• Molding: Acrylic can be heated and molded to shape, and then heated again while retaining its appearance.
• Recycling: Both acrylic and polycarbonate are recyclable, but acrylic isn't always accepted by every recycling program.
• Glue bonding: Acrylic offers a cleaner glue joint than polycarbonate.
• Cutting & Drilling:

  Acrylic can be cut with conventional tools. It is easier to cut than polycarbonate but there is a much higher risk of cracking the material especially when working with thinner sheets.

  Acrylic tends to crack if the cut or hole is too close to an edge. To drill, use a plastic specific drill bit.

  Polycarbonate can be cut with conventional tools. It ‘fights” the initial push of a saw or router but is highly unlikely to shatter.

  Drilling typically does not crack even when drilling close to an edge. Regular drill bits can be used.

• Chemical Resistance / Cleaning

  Acrylic: Low Chemical Resistance. Should be cleaned with plastic cleaners or a damp cloth.

  Polycarbonate: Higher than Acrylic. Resistant to Gasoline and some acids. To be safe, most sources recommend cleaning Polycarb with plastic cleaners and damp cloths.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS:

• With 250 times the impact resistance of glass, Polycarbonate is almost always our “go to” clear plastic if clarity is required. It is almost unbreakable so handlers do not need to worry about our items being too weak for the stronger, more aggressive animals. As always, all strong aggressive animals should only be playing with the thickest and strongest plastics available. Racing car windshields, Astronaut Helmets, and Bullet-proof “Glass” are all made from Polycarbonate.
• With only 17 times the impact resistance of glass, Acrylic should be considered a distant second place and only used in the presence of very docile animals. If using Acrylic is your only option, get the thickest available and never leave an aggressive animal unattended. The same concern needs to be applied to any enclosure that allows Acrylic Toys and Feeders to drop onto hard surfaces.